Globe-Trotter: Sabine Heller
Sabine Heller, President of ASMALLWORLD?the jet-set social network for travelers?defines well traveled. She not only speaks four languages, but is one of the most well traveled women we know.Sabine Heller, President of ASMALLWORLD?the jet-set social network for travelers?defines well traveled. She not only speaks four languages, but is one of the most well traveled women we know. Sabine, half-Indian and half French-Austrain, grew up between New York, Bombay and New Delhi. She?s also lived in Paris and Costa Rica. Sabine gives us a glimpse into her favorite destinations in some of her favorite countries:
Given you grew up in two cities, what are some of your favorite shopping destinations in Bombay and New York?
India is in a gold rush, which translates into a fabulously bling-tastic aesthetic that I sometimes find difficult to escape. For a younger and cooler taste, I love the bohemian chic-inspired lifestyle store Bungalow Eight and Bombay Electric, which offers a modern take on tradition. Also not to be missed, Bandit Queen, for lovely crisp white linens, pillows and pajamas. Fabindia and Anokhi are great shops for Indian basics, and so is Chor Bazaar, the Marches aux Puces of Bombay, where you?ll find everything from gramophones to chandeliers.
Alternatively, New York has thousands of incredible options. I can?t live without Zero + Maria Cornejo?s simple but borderline genius geometric designs; Roberta Freymann?s Indian-inspired resort wear; Resurrection?s vintage; Fenton Fallon?s ?80s glam jewelry; and Opening Ceremony?s mix of cutting edge designers like Suno and Joseph Altuzarra.
What are some of your eating destinations in Bombay and New York City?
Historically India has not been an eating out culture. By far, the best meals I have ever had have taken place in people?s homes. That said, 10 years ago Rahul Akerkar hippified the restaurant experience when he opened Indigo, and it remains a wonderful place. I also adore Trishna (try the mouth-watering butter pepper garlic king crab) and Soam, for its unusual Gujarati fare.
In New York my favorite restaurant is Omen, which serves rustic Kyoto-style food. For sushi I love Blue Ribbon Sushi, Soto and Sushi Yasuda. I also frequent Bobo (incredible d?cor), Bar Pitti (delicious simple fare), Blue Ribbon Bakery (for the bone marrow and fried chicken), Tamarind (solid Indian food) and Joe?s Pizza on Bleecker (best slice of pizza in town)
While residing in NYC, are you an uptown or downtown girl, and what do you find special about where you live?
I grew up uptown, but I?m more of a downtown girl. I live in Union Square, which is super convenient.
What do you never leave home without?
My blackberry, Rosebud lip balm and Nars multi-purpose stick.
What advice would you give to our readers who are planning a trip to India?
Curturally speaking there is no ?one? India. It?s comprised of many languages, dialects, religions and cuisines. It?s also a country of extremes, binary oppositions and contradictions. You cannot attempt to impose order on it, or make sense of it. You have to submit to its rhythms and learn its subtleties.
What should we avoid?
1) A short trip. The jet lag is difficult and you?ll likely experience major culture shock when you arrive. It takes time to adjust as well as a few weeks to get a real feel for the place.
2) Don?t rush. You?ll only frustrate yourself and dream of Japan where silent trains run on schedule. Nothing in India goes fast and nothing is efficient.
3) Avoid focusing just on major tourist destinations. There is more to India than the Delhi-Agra-Jaipur circuit.
What should we partake in?
Ahilya Fort, a palace that quietly and perfectly captures the soul of India. It?s the ancestral home of my godfather, Richard Holkar, the maharajah of Indore. It?s open to guests. It?s my favorite place on earth! You should also experience a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala, the erotic temples of Khajuraho, trekking in the foothills of the Himalayas and some time in a rural village.
Do you have a travel regime?
The words travel and regime don?t fit together for me. As much as possible I like to see where my travels take me.
Does it include certain must-have items?
Yes, my Canon G11 camera, a journal, a caftan from Fabindia or Anokhi and a scarf from Women Weave (my godmother?s non-profit weaving cooperative).
What?s your favorite destination you have traveled to and why?
Annapurna base camp because it?s breathtaking to be so close to the top of the world, and because I worked so damn hard to get there!
What are your favorite L-atitude items?
Fallon, Veruca XL Bib Necklace, $230
Kimberly Ovitz, Icarus Sweater Jacket, $435
Kotur, Fane Pleated Snakeskin Clutch, $589
Amba, Window Scarf, $125
Globe-Trotter: Hema Shroff Patel
Hema Shroff Patel was born in the US but has lived in Mumbai for the past 22 years. Her journey in the preservation and resurrection of textile traditions began nearly 20 years ago. After many years of working in the weaving industry, Patel set up her own shop?hence, the birth of Amba in 1999.Hema Shroff Patel was born in the US but has lived in Mumbai for the past 22 years. Her journey in the preservation and resurrection of textile traditions began nearly 20 years ago. After many years of working in the weaving industry, Patel set up her own shop?hence, the birth of Amba in 1999. Amba?s line supports traditional forms of weaving, block printing and eco-friendly natural dyeing. A portion of the profits earned are earmarked for specific projects where the aim is to improve the quality of the craftspeople?s professional lives. We sat down with Hema to gain insight into her business as well as the cause she supports.
You are US born, but now are based in Bombay. What brought you there?
I came here after I finished my undergraduate degree to take a break, spend time with my family ? who had moved to Bombay ? and work for a year before applying to graduate school. After a year, I felt I should live and work in Bombay for another year. It seemed like I had lots more to discover and learn. I met my husband during my second year of living in Bombay.
What are the "must go to" places you take friends and family to when they are visiting you in Mumbai?
Favorite Restaurant: Swati Snacks ? best Indian street food in town, served in a low key diner.
Treasure Trove: Bungalow Eight in Colaba. There?s floor upon floor of wonderful pieces from clothing to home to lifestyle , all from near and far. It?s set on three floors which are beautifully restored warehouse-like spaces. One can spend hours pottering around in there.
Heritage nook in the city: Banganga Tank and sit on the steps near sunset. It?s surrounded by old temples falling to bits. The water tank has a wonderful feeling of calm.
How did you initially become involved in weaving scarves? What is the origin of the name "Amba?
I was invited to this lovely weaving town by the Holkars back in 1991. Arriving on the banks of the Narmada River was a homecoming of sorts. It just felt so right to be there. I started working with their initiative that year and have worked in that weaving village ever since.
?Amba? is one of 101 names for the Narmada River. My friend Pandya, in Maheshwar, found the name for me almost ten years ago. Amba is now set up as a social entrepreneurship and gives back to projects to support craft heritage in rural India.
Can you fill us in on Women Weave, the non-profit organization you are on the board of?
Women Weave has two main objectives:
- It strives to preserve the rich heritage of handloom, and works with weaving communities to improve their design banks, marketing links and quality of raw materials and work.
- It provides employment for women without any weaving background. These women have generally been working in nearby fields doing farming-related work. WW provides a platform for these women by training them in basic weaving skills and then helps find a market for their products.
What is the most rewarding part of being involved in Women Weave?
Currently, one of the most satisfying aspects is working with the Young Weavers; children of weavers we have worked with for years. Many of these children are the first to be educated in their families and have options for the first time ever . Their debate is do they carry on the weaving tradition or do they go on to college and move to a mid-size town in India and look for work. Some of these youngsters are already weavers, as they have helped with the weaving in and around going to school. Our job at WW is to help them make an informed choice.
Mumbai City Secrets: News Flash
The hottest new club in suburban Mumbai, Trilogy is made of three works of art ? beautiful sushi, wannabe models and delicious cocktails served up by striking bartenders in fedoras. One thing; don?t attempt to walk in here empty handed. Make sure your wallet is loaded! Spread over 4,000 square feet and split between two levels, the sea-facing space is divided into a pumping dance floor area complete with psychedelic ceiling lights, shiny VIP booths with waist-high champagne flutes and a more subdued bar and lounge space. Get your groove on!
Trilogy, Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Road, Santracruz (W), call + 9122 26469500,7USD for a beer, 20 USD for a cocktail, 320USD for a bottle of Moet (inclusive of taxes).
The Art Loft: Picture Perfect
The Art Loft is described as its namesake; an artsy and cozy loft space where the city?s cultural vultures like to congregate. From French ballet, improv acting, wine appreciation, to genealogy and art therapy, the schedule here boasts rare and interesting workshops specially curated by French owner and art therapist, Leila Tayebaly. She keeps it interesting with movements like The Art Conspiracy, where the walls of Mumbai?s bars and restaurants will serve as canvases for budding artists in the city. Get ready to make your mark!
The Art Loft, Valentino Rest, above Patel Stores, next to Mehboob Studio, Bandra (W), call + 91 9819132958, starts at 90 USD for eight hours.
Mumbai City Secrets: Newsflash
You can?t swing a hanger in Colaba without hitting a swish multi-designer store housed in a century old building. Ogaan is the newest of these, stocking ruffled dresses by Gauri and Nainika, wispy chiffons by Nachiket Barve, and embellished jerseys by Kavita Bhartia.You can?t swing a hanger in Colaba without hitting a swish multi-designer store housed in a century old building. Ogaan is the newest of these, stocking ruffled dresses by Gauri and Nainika, wispy chiffons by Nachiket Barve, and embellished jerseys by Kavita Bhartia. Some items you?ll fiind at other fashion hobs, so I suggest you focus on the unique vintage evening bags and oversized elephant rings by Ritika Sachdeva. Also, the uber cool tees by Sanchita sport treated leather strips and interesting shoulder pads. You definitely won?t be dissapointed here!
Getting there:5/5 Grants Building, first floor, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, call + 9122 22833576/7, 25 USD for a Ritika Sachdeva oversized ring.
Two One Two: Mumbai?s Hippest New Code
In a mid-town district starved for hip restaurants, Two One Two is a great new reason to visit Worli. Here, regal high back chairs, an all-wood exterior and a restrained bar take a back seat, allowing decadent Italian dishes to take center stage. Camembert baked to perfection, stormy mushroom cappuccino soup and flamboyantly colourful pizza verdure, all adorn the menu. Milanese chef Alex Bignotti is the master behind such dishes. Backed by Ketan Kadam, the man behind Fire ?N? Ice, Mumbai?s Two One Two is the equivalent of Studio 54. Far too indulgent for a working lunch, Two One Two is better for a week night dinner or weekend cocktails.
Two One Two Bar and Grill, 12 A, Hornby Vellard Estate, same road as Nehru Centre, Worli, call + 91 9920838529 / + 9122 24901994, 50 USD for a meal for two without alcohol.
Mumbai After Midnight: 24-Hour Hot Spots
You snooze, you lose. Rule the night, Mumbai-style. We let you in on the places that don?t stop, not even for a power nap.You snooze, you lose. Rule the night, Mumbai-style. We let you in on the places that don?t stop, not even for a power nap.
Bade Miya
No matter where you make merry in South Mumbai, Bade Miya is always the after party to the after party. In a seedy lane behind the Taj Mahal Palace & Hotel, this kebab king and his crew hand out the yummiest kathi rolls and Mughlai dishes until the wee hours of the morning. While posh partygoers prefer to pass through for a Seekh kebab roll, the more adventurous use their car hoods as tables, and bare hands to polish off a plate of chicken tikka and naan. If you visit during the 2 a.m. rush hour - bars and clubs in the city (officially) shut at 1.30 a.m. ? prepare to wait at least 30 minutes for your late night feast.
Bade Miya roadside stalls, Tulloch Road, Apollo Bunder, Colaba, call +91 022 22851649. Opens at 7 p.m., Rs 150 ($3 USD) for a chicken tikka roll.
Leena Mogre Gym
This is where (most) Indian television stars go after their graveyard shoots wrap. The only 24-hour gym in the city, Leena Mogre?s treadmills also move to the speed of Mumbai?s corporate slaves, call center executives and sexy insomniacs. Nightcaps include chocolate whey protein blends.
Leena Mogre, 482, 3rd floor, Link Corner Mall, Linking Road, Bandra (W), call +91 022 26481796.
24/7 Coffee Shops
Mumbai?s five-star hotel coffee shops are open 24/7, and they?re usually packed on weekends with Mumbai?s party overflow. Here, you can snack on sandwiches that cost $25 USD (as if you hadn?t already spent enough on those swish cocktails). Get a yummy Fiamma pizza at The President Hotel?s Trattoria , and split it five ways. If you?re in the suburbs, drop by Vista at Taj Lands End for uncomfortably expensive comfort food (get the dal makhani) and an almost definite Bollywood czar sighting: Shah Rukh Khan and Salman Khan live in the neighborhood.
Trattoria, Taj President Hotel, 90, Cuffe Parade, call +91 022 66650808; Taj Lands End, Bandstand, Bandra (W), call +91 022 66681234
3rd Step
In a bylane of Mumbai?s glitzy Juhu suburb, behind a rundown bakery, you?ll find some of the best Indian rock bands (and groupies) practicing for their next gig. You and your friends can stop to listen ? or pay Rs 200 an hour and take the next jam room shift to play your own tunes. 3rd Step is a 24-hour music quarters that, in addition to a jam room, also houses an instrument store and a record company ? all squeezed into 350 square feet of space.
3rd Step, lane opposite Sea Princess Hotel, Kishore Kumar Ganguly Road, behind Rajput Bakery, Juhu
Mumbai: Gold Standard
Even in a country flashing with gold ? you?ll find it on saris and stationary, temples and totes ? the city of Mumbai stands out for its obsession with the precious metal. From old Maharashtrian grandmothers, to women in the boardroom (and even some adventurous men), gold is everyone?s favorite way of spicing up an ensemble.Even in a country flashing with gold ? you?ll find it on saris and stationary, temples and totes ? the city of Mumbai stands out for its obsession with the precious metal. From old Maharashtrian grandmothers, to women in the boardroom (and even some adventurous men), gold is everyone?s favorite way of spicing up an ensemble. A gold and onyx necklace is an example of what?s considered an important wedding symbol, and worn daily by a sub-sect of married women in Mumbai.
Old Gold
The best examples of traditional jewelry can be found in Zaveri Bazar, commonly known as a ?jewelry market?, where excited brides shop for their trousseau. Here you can score the likes of delicate rings and multi-tiered necklaces, to waist-belts and hairpins. Our favorite stop for baubles is at Dedhia Jewelers, conveniently located in Mumbai.
All that Glitters?
Although a lot of the gold jewelry you may discover on your journey contributes a vintage-cool factor to the most contemporary wardrobes, there are still plenty of young designers making more urban designs from gold. Tanishq, a pan-national jewelry store chain is a terrific one-stop-shop. Not only does it have a wide variety of price ranges, but it also guarantees authenticity. Often times, smaller stores are less reliable in terms of purity and weight.
Of course, if you?re not too fussy about buying the genuine stuff, try Bungalo 8. This lush, three-level store in Colaba, carries some of the most lust-worthy faux gold jewelry in the city. A true golden temple!
ZaveriBazar, Bhuleshwar, South Mumbai; Dedhia Jewelers, Shop No 3, SangitSagar Building,Matunga; Tanishq flagship, 365/C, Linking Road, Khar; Bungalow 8, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba.
Globe-Trotter: Fanny Boucher of Honorine Jewels
The love of jewelry brought Paris native Fanny Boucher to India. In her adopted hometown of Jaipur, in the state of Rajasthan, she frequents the local bazaars handpicking the most beautiful gems for her line, Honorine Jewels. Both her and her designs embody fusions of East and West, creating the perfect baubles for the global woman.The love of jewelry brought Paris native Fanny Boucher to India. In her adopted hometown of Jaipur, in the state of Rajasthan, she frequents the local bazaars handpicking the most beautiful gems for her line, Honorine Jewels. Both her and her designs embody fusions of East and West, creating the perfect baubles for the global woman.
Jaipur is a mystic city. What about the city inspires you the most?
The scenic view from my balcony. It faces Moti Dungri Palace, which is a lovely fort on top of a small hill.
The iconic Diana Vreeland once said that pink is the black of India, and Rajasthan is arguably India's most colorful state. What do you like about the use of color in Indian dress and how do you incorporate it into your designs?
Rajasthani village women wear fluorescent yellow with electric blue, bright orange with forest green, all kinds of crazy combinations, and I love it! I try to use this in my jewelry as well. For example, I make braided bracelets and ordered them in these fantastic colors such as vermilion, aqua and hot pink.
Where are the best places in shop in India?
The best place to shop in Delhi is Kashmir Loom. They make the most exquisite cashmere shawls in incredible colors. Jaipur is the capital of gemstones and always full of tourist places. The best place to shop for jewelry is Tholia, on MI Road (Tholia Building, +91 14 12 37 27 90). It?s not a glamorous place that would be featured in the magazines. It's small, understated, and kind of a secret among people who know jewelry.
If you had only one day in Jaipur, what would you recommend? What about the rest of India?
Start with Jaipur?s Amber Fort, the most beautiful fort in India by far. Then have a walk in the Old City and a cozy lunch on the verandah at Rambagh Palace. Shop for jewelry in the afternoon. Then head out of the city for a sunset elephant ride followed by home-cooked Indian food at Dera Amer (+91 98 29 01 25 12), an elephant camp in the wild.
What you can't find anywhere else in the world is the restaurant Circa 119 in Mehrauli, Delhi. It faces the Qutub Minar, one of Delhi's great monuments. It is one of the most breathtaking experiences (+91 98 18 43 87 41).
Sariska, a part of Rajasthan that is still untouched and mystical, is my favorite.
Which are the must-see bazaars in India? And what are your tips for navigating them?
Tripolia Bazaar in Jaipur is pretty atmospheric, and the bazaar in Jodhpur is even more inspiring. The best bazaars are the ones that sell non-touristy things: spices, sweets, trunks and plates. These things I love! My tips: cover yourself, relax and just ignore the hawkers.
What are your tips for dressing stylishly in extreme heat? What about during monsoon season?
India is very hot, but it's also a very conservative country, so you need to be covered. My savior is men?s shirts. I wear them all the time, with sleeves rolled up. I like to wear men's clothes anyway, so it suits my style. For the monsoon: Havaianas!
Bollywood stars are the tastemakers for Indian fashion. Who are your favorite stars and what do you like about their style?
Bollywood style is a little too brazen for me! But my favorite actress is Sonya Jehan; she has these incredible almond eyes and wears the sari beautifully. She is always elegant and poised - and she is half French!
What is an ideal day in your hometown of Paris?
In Paris, you just have to sit in a cafe and watch people. When I shop, it's for a special piece, like feather-light leather pants by Aurelia Stouls (+33 1 47 03 95 85), a French leather genius, or a bag by the new hot designer in town, Yvonne Yvonne. I love going to Deyrolle, the most famous taxidermist in Paris. Idream of getting a leopard from there, but that's way out of my budget.
But really, my ideal day is all about the food. Breakfast at the Flore (I'm still a bit of a tourist in Paris; I grew up in the countryside). Lunch at Angelo Procopio, a tiny, fabulous, authentic Italian bistro (89, rue Saint-Honore 75001 +33 1 40 41 06 25). Dinner is at Les Cocottes, great French homestyle food (135, rue Saint-Dominique 75007 +33 1 45 50 10 31).
Get Her Look: Sonam Kapoor
She may not have the most controversial love life or the biggest box office hit, but Sonam Kapoor is the hottest actress in Bollywood today, all thanks to one thing ? her wardrobe. As a result, this newbie actress has landed the cover of every fashion magazine in the country ? Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire and Cosmopolitan. Indian starlets typically assert their fashion forwardness by showing a lot of skin, but Sonam Kapoor, daughter of Slumdog Millionaire actor Anil Kapoor, revels in taking fashion risks.She may not have the most controversial love life or the biggest box office hit, but Sonam Kapoor is the hottest actress in Bollywood today, all thanks to one thing ? her wardrobe. As a result, this newbie actress has landed the cover of every fashion magazine in the country ? Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire and Cosmopolitan. Indian starlets typically assert their fashion forwardness by showing a lot of skin, but Sonam Kapoor, daughter of Slumdog Millionaire actor Anil Kapoor, revels in taking fashion risks.
Sonam, known for experimenting with looks from designers like Prabal Gurung and Alice & Olivia, who have rarely been seen before in India, has spawned a whole new style movement. One that is easy on body image and much more compatible with still-conservative Indian norms than the bikini-and-mini-skirt route Bollywood has taken to.
Her fashion icon status has been cemented further by her latest release Aisha, the Indian equivalent of Sex and the City; the film is heavily sponsored by Dior and features merchandise by every major international design house.
Fashion forward, indeed.
Get Her Look:
Loeffler Randall, Pocket Blouse, $325
Loeffler Randall, Draped Pocket Pant, $295
Loeffler Randall, Simone Bootie, $625
Anupamaa, Pink Horse Scarf, $225
Chako, Anissa Clutch, $325
Love Rocks New York, Gold Wire XO Ring, $2,200
Mumbai City Secrets: Flea Market Guide
Mumbai is a city of outdoor markets: flowers and furniture, meat and maps are sold in bazaars littered with junk and studded with jewels, thick with aggressive hawkers and sharp-eyed shoppers. For newcomers, even the most civilized of these can be overwhelming.Mumbai is a city of outdoor markets: flowers and furniture, meat and maps are sold in bazaars littered with junk and studded with jewels, thick with aggressive hawkers and sharp-eyed shoppers. For newcomers, even the most civilized of these can be overwhelming. Don your most comfortable shoes, hold your wallet close, and just dive in: even if you don?t end up buying anything, you?ll leave with stories aplenty.
Chor Bazaar
Perhaps Mumbai?s most frequented street shopping destination, locals and tourists alike head to this ?Thieves Market;? its is name derived from the fact that a lion?s share of the goods on sale here are stolen. Most popular are the shops that sell antique furniture and old gramophone records, but visitors will also find more easily transportable goods like intricately carved ivory artifacts, kitschy Bollywood memorabilia, and even the meters taken off the ubiquitous auto rickshaws that zoom around the city.
Begin at Mini Market, 33/31 Mutton Street, Chor Bazaar, Mohammed Ali Road, call+91 (0) 22 2347 2427
Colaba Causeway
Lining downtown?s most central road, one can?t help but pass by the chaotic Colaba market. You might as well pause and take a look around, rummage through countless tiny stalls for Wonderland-esque pocket watches, pop-colored wooden bangles and straw-bottomed flip flops made famous by the Osho Ashram in Pune. Remember to bargain fiercely for your spoils: start at under half of what the shop owners ask, and settle at about 60 percent of the original quoted price. Deal or no deal?
Starting point at Caf? Mondegar, Metro House, Colaba Causeway
Olive Bar and Kitchen and Vie Lounge
Tea lights flicker under a setting sun as you browse through pretty scarves and organic jams. You gladly fork over the exorbitant price for the woven straw bag that you just have to have. This is, after all, not the kind of place where you haggle over money. Catch the luxe flea markets hosted by swish restaurants Olive Bar and Kitchen and Vie Lounge between October and December every year, at the peak of the tourist season.
Olive Bar & Kitchen, 14 Union Park, Khar (W), call +91 (0) 22 26058228; Vie Deck and Lounge, 102 Juhu Tara Road, Juhu, call +91 (0) 22 26603003. Inquire in advance for dates and times.
Fly Mumbai: 24-Hour Layover
Twenty-four hours is barely enough to scratch the surface of the sprawling, schizophrenic metropolis that is Mumbai. But if you are stuck here for a day, these are the highlights you should not miss.Start downtown in Colaba, the epicenter of Mumbai?s must-see map. On this tiny strip of land that forms the city?s southernmost tip, you?ll find shopping shacks and shaded swimming pools, tourist traps and take-out, culture and kitsch.
Twenty-four hours is barely enough to scratch the surface of the sprawling, schizophrenic metropolis that is Mumbai. But if you are stuck here for a day, these are the highlights you should not miss.
Start downtown in Colaba, the epicenter of Mumbai?s must-see map. On this tiny strip of land that forms the city?s southernmost tip, you?ll find shopping shacks and shaded swimming pools, tourist traps and take-out, culture and kitsch.
9 a.m.
Breakfast: Eggs Well Done
Even if you haven?t visited Indigo Deli before, you won?t feel like a stranger. The wood-paneled walls, half-read newspapers and international menu will make you feel at home before you begin exploring the strange and wonderful streets of Mumbai. Fortify yourself with Eggs Benedict, pancakes and excellent hash browns, strong coffee ? or a stiff G&T.
Indigo Deli, 4, Mandlik Road, Apollo Bandar, Colaba, call +9122 66368999.
11 a.m.
See: Drawn Out Walk
Just past the bustling, sun-baked roads of Regal Circle lies the leafy stretch of Kala Ghoda (the Black Horse), broad, quiet and art-lined. Sample slivers of the Indian art scene at galleries like the Jehangir, or artisan coffee and culture-conversation at Samovar and the Kala Ghoda Caf?.
Jehangir Art Gallery and Samovar, Kala Ghoda, call +91222843989, open daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Kala Ghoda Caf?, Ropewalk Street, Kala Ghoda, +912222633866.
12 p.m.
Buy: Shock Value
Bungalow 8 is a cross between a Maharaja?s estate and Ms. Haversham?s home in Great Expectations. Housed on three floors of a dilapidated building, it has retained the peeling, patchy walls and wide-beamed floors of the original structure, but embellished them with hand-carved marble ashtrays, silk tunics and 400 thread count sheets. Apart from exquisite home accessories and small furniture, the store also stocks a carefully curated line of clothes and some seriously lust-worthy costume jewelry. Prepare your credit card from some wear and tear.
To balance your splurging, tick off your remaining shopping list at the jumble of street stores on Colaba Causeway. Here, you?ll find everything from jewelry to handbags, T-shirts to souvenirs - but remember to bring your bargaining skills.
Bungalow 8, Grants Building, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, call +9122819881.
1:30 p.m.
South by North
Bandra, the boho northern suburb and popular expat neighborhood, should be where you spend the rest of your day.
Break up the hour-long, traffic-plagued ride with a lunch stop at Dakshinayan, where you?ll get authentic south Indian cuisine ? paper-thin rice crepes, steaming lentil soup, spicy condiments, cooling yogurt rice ? double quick. Expect to sit elbow to elbow with lunching ladies and hungry suits (and a polite nudge out the door if you?re dawdling over your plate). A meal for two will cost you under $10 USD.
Dakshinayan, 183, Teen Batti Road, Walkeshwar, open 11am-3pm and 6pm-11pm.
3 p.m.
Buy: Seven Stitches for Seven Days
Now that you?ve managed to cross the Sea Link, your first stop on the other side should be Khar?s D-7, where you?ll find one designer for every day of the week, including some of the country?s biggest couturiers: Manish Arora, Namrata Joshipura, Rajesh Pratap Singh and more. We especially love Manish Arora?s kitschy threads and Rajesh Pratap Singh?s clean white palette.
If you?re working on a skinny budget, skip the tourist-traps of Linking Road market and comb through the slew of export stores. Our favorite is Dark Waters, a designer lair that stocks everything from Burberry and Chanel to DVF and Armani at super slashed rates (watch out for fakes, though).
D-7, Shop No. 1, Turning Point, Junction of 1st and 16th road, Khar (W).
5:30 p.m.
See: Urban Villages
It?s hard to believe that 300-year-old villages, or gaothans, exist in a city that?s constantly aiming for the skies. Of these, the Chimbai Village and Pali Mala Road in Bandra have acquired heritage status, while Pali Village waits for a similar honor. Here, you?ll find Portuguese bungalows and quiet squares, all interconnected by narrow streets where kids play cricket.
Stroll through and soak in the lazy vibe, incongruous with Mumbai?s frantic pace. Stop by the super charming Pali Village Caf? for a slice of cheesecake and (hopefully) a Bollywood celebrity sighting.
Pali Village Cafe, next to Janata Bar and Restaurant, Pali Naka, Bandra (W), call +912226050401.
8 p.m.
Dinner: Freshest Fish
In a suburb founded by Kohli fisher folk, leaving without eating pomfret fish is unpardonable. Drop in at Soul Fry, a great place to sample the state?s fiery coastal delicacies; Monday nights are best, when they mix curry with karaoke.
If seafood is not your thing, walk down to the seafront and get pita rolls stuffed with spicy butter chicken and cottage cheese at Maroosh. Well worth the weekend rush.
Soul Fry, Silver Croft, Bandra (W), call +9126046892; Maroosh, A/6, Gagangiri Apartment, Carter Road, Bandra (W), call +912226005584
10.30 p.m.
Party: Cheers!
In Bandra, you can party in shorts or a silk dress, and fit right in at both. Begin your night at Zenzi, where DJs from all around the world stop in for a gig. The living-room-like setup is casual and breezy, with cocktails to match.
If you?re willing to trek another 20 minutes north to Juhu, then Aurus, a plush beach bar with overpriced drinks and the most amazing chocolate fondant, is a great place to hang. With white couches, plenty of eye candy and a panoramic view of the sea, it?s one of the prettiest little corners of this Maximum City. Have a drink, and promise yourself you?ll come back for a longer visit next time.
Zenzi, RK Patkar Marg, Waterfield Road, Bandra, call +912266430670
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